The Story of Banarasi Saree
By Shreya Shrivastava December 24, 2020
There is a saying “Take a dip in the holy river Ganga, taste the paan and chai of Kashi, but if you have not seen the magic of weavers hands and listen to the traditional handloom machine rhythm, you have seen half Banaras”
There are so many things that depreciate with the time, then there are things that become more valuable with the time like gold, experience and Banarasi saree. Old is truly gold in such cases. Gold and silver zari work saree, a true piece of art which is still created from old traditional technique and handloom machines.
“ Banarasi weaving is an art form ”
This magical skill is passed on to the next generation as a way of life itself. We call it a magical process because the entire process (from preparation to weaving) takes anywhere between 15 days to 6 months or 1 year depending on the design complexity. The best example of true treasure and art is BANARASI SAREE.
Banarasi Saree History
India is rich in history, culture and tradition. The rich history of India has always kept us connected to culture and tradition. Saree was a huge part of the Hindu mythology from the Ramayana period in 1000 to 300 B.C. Whereas Mughals have a very crucial role in the process. It was the Mughals who introduced and promoted the Banarsi silk in India in an early stage. It was the great Mughal emperor, Akbar who introduced the weaving machines in Bananas and across India.
Saree has always been part of an Indian woman since forever. Handwoven silk sarees industry has grown widely after independence and Banarasi silk till that time has gained huge popularity. Rich Banarasi silk with the zari (gold and silver thread) work has the symbol of the royalty and class.
Evergreen Beauty
Varanasi saree is forever a fashion trend and is an evergreen wardrobe essential. Popularly known as ‘National dress of Indian women’. Banarasi saree is not only the bridal wear, but all religions and social status ladies love this saree. Banarasi sarees are trendy, available in different shades and designs which make them more desirable.
Even with all technology Banarasii saree is weaved with hand-loom techniques which bring out the different softness and texture. The fashionable and exotic weaving, different kinds of motifs, zari and emeralds have become the favourite among women all over the world. The Banarasi saree is just like a pinch of salt to the food they go with every trend and are the evergreen outfit.
Over time the Banarasi handloom has become a much-wanted attire of the brides for the wedding day. Being the amazing creation of many craftsmen of the city who have inherited the family tradition of weaving the Banarasi saree is not only rich and beautiful fabric but also a beautiful emotion.
Weaving Process
The weaving system is as ancient as the city Kashi. The process starts with the selection of yarn as the base should be strong for any product. Then Reeling (tying the yarn in a bundle) the treads separately rise on the reeling machine. The process continues with the dying of yarn in particular colours. Then comes the magical process of the whole process, where saree is woven in handloom.
Banarasi saree is woven on jacquard pit looms. The warp (tana) holds the tension on the loom and lift, whereas weft (bana) are placed in a shuttle. The shutter moves and interweaves the warp and weft (back and forth). The magical process of weaving is what makes fabric special and unique. The colours selection in a pattern or ‘Matching colours’ as we like to call it.
Once a pattern has been designed, graphed with colours, set the loom, certain colours are chosen for the elements. After the day and night waking up the designer team and weavers create this magic. With the final touch of love and cutting the tiny threads on the fabric. These Banarasi sarees are then folded and packaged with love.
“ Banarasi is the name given to the magic of weavers hands ”
Banarasi has a special place in our hearts
Kashi has everything special whether its food, ghat or saree. Banarasi sarees are handwoven till today that’s what makes Banarasi saree special. To create these ‘Imperfectly perfect’ sarees firstly designs are created on the paper which further goes to punched into a hard sheet making it look like Braille. These dotted sheets guide each row to create a pattern.
The fine weaving and zari work is what makes Banarasi saree stand out. Banarasi saree takes 15 days to a month and sometimes up to six months depending on the designs. Today also most of the weavers use to weave in the traditional process which gives the different texture and feel to the saree.
Design
The motifs which are used in the Banarasi saree are very natural and unique. In the Mughal period, the motifs are floral patterns, leaves, animals. The motifs are simple and decent. During the British period, the motifs change to the geometrical pattern which is unique in their own way. Today, Mughal and British period motifs are still popular.
The variation in the motifs is changing according to fashion. Due to the fashion cycle, the old and ancient motifs are now back in fashion. Fashion is an art of dressing, while these Banarasi sarees are the key to that art. Most of the influencers mix and match the Banarasi saree with the crop top and boots.
How to identify the purity of Banarasi saree
When the demand is high we all now supply is affected. Due to this increase in the demand fake silk sarees are manufactured to fill the demand. To identify the pure silk Banarasi saree it becomes too important to know how to identify the purity. (Don’t worry it’s not rocket science just keep a few things in mind while purchasing Banarasi saree).
Banarasi sarees are manufactured from traditional handloom method hence it has weaving errors which make Banarasi saree ‘Imperfectly perfect’.
GI (Geographical Indication) tag is the government mark which protects customers and craftsmen. One should surely ensure before the purchase Banarasi saree to avoid scam.
Reserve the Banarasi saree if you find the heavy and tangled thread then you need to worry because pure Banarasi saree is weaved by the skilled weavers and it has neat and clean weaving.
Care guide
The only thing you need to know while purchasing this beauty is to always keep them in dark while wrapping it on a soft cloth. The best way is to get them dry clean but if you are washing it at home then make sure to simply dip it in cold water for a few minutes and hand it out to dry. Detergent is a big NO in the first few washes. Always dark-dry the saree never sun-dry the saree as it will fade the colour. Wrap it in a muslin cloth and store in the hanging position.
Banarasi saree is irreplaceable in any woman’s wardrobe and heart!
